Month: Jul 2017

Day 211 Musgrave

by 2souls2wheels

After departing Terry we road on some terrible roads. Very corregated, sandy and dusty. We happily pulled into Old Laura to look at the old remains of a self sustainable farm station over 100 years old. It’s now deserted but had once farmed cattle, contained a steel factory and a house for Aboriginal farm workers. Quite incredible in the middle of nowhere. After having a walk around the grounds looking at the structures we head off again on the Peninsula Developmental Road.

By the time we reached Laura for lunch we were covered in red dirt. Laura was a small town consisting of 2 shops, one housing a barramundi burger for the price of $18.50. Im not sure what they were thinking, this isnt a burger shop in Sydney with a veiw of the Harbour. You would be lucky to see a geeko out here. I settled for a $6 toastie with cheese and tomato.

From Laura we continued on worse roads than what we had experienced before lunch. The corregation was larger, like 2 sharp speed bumps per meter continuously for hours and the occasional pockets of deep soft sand. I could feel the sun’s rays blistering through the mesh in my jacket as though every inch of my skin was burning underneath. I was sweating everywhere possible including the tops of my hands and front of my knees. It was my most difficult day on the bike so far and i was completley and utterly fried by the time i reached Musgrave station.

Rob asked me on arrival as we filled our bikes up with fuel “Do you want to stay here its $10 each or in the free camping down the road?
I could tell Rob would have been happier with free camping as we are both on a budget. I was however covered in dirt and as stinky as a teenage boys armpits prior to him discovering deodorant as i had run out. Thats right, i was feral. To be fair, Rob was too but he never seems to mind as much. $10 sounded like a cheap price for unlimited shower power, i was in.

We set up our tent close to the lake with only barb wired fencing separating us.  On another side there was a paddock with about 10 horses. We were surrounded and the owner informed us there were fresh water crocodiles in the lake that he feeds daily at 5pm. He let us know there was only one big fresh water crocodile in there but she is harmless. It didnt stop me from putting the bikes between the tent and the lake that night.

The next morning we packed up and had breaky as fast as we could, so we could leave before it got too hot. We found ourselves once again chatting to the friendly owner as the horses strolled around the front of the roadhouse. The owner runs laps around the park daily doing so many different jobs, always busy. He let us know that the two men sitting a few tables over were walking. ‘Walking where?’ I asked. Our current location had taken us half a day to ride to and there was nothing else in between.
Walking from the tip, the most northern point of Australia to the most southern in Tasmania. Walking!!!
The owner left so i said to Rob ‘lets go talk to them.’
He shook his head as he was keen to get on the road but i was too intrigued. I needed to know the hows? whys? So as soon as Rob set off to the toilet off i went to ask so many questions they have probably answered 100 times.

There names were Fred and Alex. One from New Zealand and the other from Germany. They had recently walked the length of NZ and Fred had previous done one of the great treks through Europe.
They were just doing it for themselves. No charity. They literally just liked to walking. They realised that the distances between stations at the top end were hot, dry and had a lot more people on it than anticipated (but it was school holidays)
Their next stop was 15 days away. One of the longest trecks inbetween stations they were to come accross. They had to pack less water than they felt comfortable with and more food just to get there. They had 1 outfit including the 1 pair of shoes on their feet. Alex and Fred had decided to make a sign and hold it up to ask for water as people were passing as they couldnt physically carry enough if they wanted to.

I was in awe. I thought they were crazy to walk that far but understood the self saticfation and growth that comes from exploring the unknown. Its not something that can be taught in a book or documentary no matter how many places you find out about. Its not something that can completley be described to a person as ones perception of the world is completly different to another. Its something you just have to do, and hopefully the people or person you choose travel with is excited to explore the unknown too.

Day 210 Cook Town

by 2souls2wheels

From the Lions Den we head off behind our new friends Joel, Liz, Nuala and Elgan. They all work in Cape Tribulation and have taken a 2 day getaway. We followed them to a hidden waterfall off the Mulligan Highway, which was testing at times of my motorbike skills. Pot holes everywhere, sand and lots of uneven, split roads. The area was surrounded by large boulder rocks and trees growing in the sides and in between the rocks, anyway they could. It was quite incredible to see. As the waterfall fell into the water hole it looked deep and dark but was small enough for us to not worry about any crocodiles, we hope. We took some time  to appreciate our surroundings and left, not before searching for Nuala who had wondered off down the stream and got lost.

The next stop was the Archer Point Conservation Park. This was the first time ive seen roads that were pink, orange, red and maroon. It was incredible. It feels like the mixed red dirt, sand and other components of the earth bring the landscape alive. How we cover such a magical planet with bitumen. We get to the lookout and are in awe of this amazing part of the country looking up and down the coastline. Unspoiled, untouched, unbroken.

With hungry bellies we head to Cook Town for a delicious seafood lunch whilst sitting on the wharf. We watched a local young guy who seemed to be scouring the wharf for anything to steel as Rob kept his eyes glearing accross at him. With all our possessions on the bike we cant take any chances and he looked way to suspicious to be searching for something he may have left behind.

We depart our new fun friends and begin our trek on bright red dirt to a large river crossing with danger signs all around warning us of crocodiles. I looked up the banks, in the water and pulled back the throttle tearing the water whilst soaking up a whole bunch of water in my boots. If it wasnt hard enoungh crossing a rocky river bank on my learners there had to be crocodiles in the water ready to eat me. I felt like my life had turned into a game momentarily possibly searching for bananas in the jungle and the croc infested river was my next challenge. We ride futher and come accross the pretty Isabella falls hiding underneath the road which looks like a small river crossing as we stop for a break. Unexpecting beauty all around us.

Day 208 Cape Tribulation

by 2souls2wheels

From Cairns we road up the windy Kennedy highway through the Kuranda state forrest to the Kuranda markets. They reminded me of  shops on the esplanade at Byron Bay and a dash of Nimbim without the drugs.

The markets were delightful and we filled our bellies with a delicious falafel pocket. How i have missed middle eastern food after living there for nearly 8 years. It felt like the flavours ran straight to my blood stream like a falafel junkie.

From there we head along the Captain Cook
highway stopping in to see the elegant looking Port Douglas. Riding into town there were 5 star hotels on each side with well manicured lawns everywhere. Once getting to the main street it looked just like Noosa without the constant stream of tourists. We ate lunch on the beach which surprisingly had surf life savers guarding the croc infested beach. We looked at each other confused. Signage warning of crocodiles yet swimmers and lifeguards?
Not to sure how successful they could be saving someone from a croc..

From there we continued on the Mossman Daintree road until we reached a ferry taking us into the Daintree rainforest. The oldest rainforest in the world. It was dense, green in more shades i knew possible and incredibly moving to ride through.
We arrive on the edge of Cape Tribulation and set up camp. We are in a cute local caravan park backing onto the beach as the national park was full. Apparently a common occurance so we set up and went to the beach to watch the pink and purple sunset. Whilst there we found an abundance of coconuts crying for us to cut them open and drink. So Rob got chopping with his thrifty axe and we drank like Kings and Queens.

The next morning we took a romantic stroll along a board walk in the oldest rainforest in the world where the mangroves and rainforest meet. It was magical. The fallen decomposing leaves were all over the ground leaving their skeletons behind that look like the outline of fairy wings. So pretty.
  
We rode along to the Rossville Bloomfield road, stopping in the IGA to get some supplies and randomly a delicious Barramundi Burger. We continued on the dirt road through the forest where our next pub oasis awaited. The Lions Den in Rossville. You couldnt help but be draw into the old worn wood and the huge Lion statue as you enter this place of history built in 1875.

The walls told the stories with photos and signatures marking everything with a quirky museum of random things to top it off out the back.

Rob got chatting to a group of lovely people who live locally as he went off to have a cigarette, a new past time he assures me is just for holidaying. As we went behind the pub to set up camp on the river the group also ended up in our camping vicinity kindly asking us to join them for dinner and drinks.
They were chatty and so funny. We went into the pub after dinner where the patrons were playing guitars and one playing the spoons and singing songs.  Our new friend Elgan became there instantaneous musical director of the group with the confidence of a few beers.  He joined the band playing drums on a green bin which also became his seat.  We laughed, sang and drank. I felt like this was a common occurrence at the Lions Den and we were one group of thousands that had walked away with a piece of the Lions Den memory in our hearts.

Day 205 Cairns

by 2souls2wheels

Whilst housesitting in Ravenshoe we did a night in Cairns. We had to feed all the animals in the afternoon and we head off for the night. The ride was amazing down the Gillies. An iconic ride for many bikers through the rain forest down the windy bends exiting the Tabelands. We notice the huge difference in temperature change due to the alitude drop as we come down the Gillies to a much warmer, more tropical climate. We arrive in Cairns and head to a caravan park where we  booked a cabin for the night. We have a swim in the pool surrounded by young teenage boys ready to jump off anything they can to make a splash, get dressed and ready to see what Cairns has instore for us. 

As we walk down the small service street out front of the caravan park awaiting the arrival of our Uber, we turn the bend and notice a man laying in the middle of the road. We also notice a car driver looking sheepish for driving around the guy on the road pretending to slow down as if he now cared. Who does that!!?
We walk over to the man laying down and realise he is a bit drunk. We assume he has fallen as one thong is still on the curb. As he slowly regains consciousness we evaluate the damage. He has a broken knee cap and its now a quarter of a way up his thigh. Ekk He has blood coming from a spot on his head and he has hit and scraped his toe pretty hard on the road. I want to take pictures, especially of the knee as it looks disgusting but feel like its innopropriate to keep a slice of his pain as future entertainment.
As we arrived so did 4 Mauri looking guys. We talked to them briefly and all decided we should indeed call the ambulance. As im on the phone the Mauris talked to Rob and apparently they had seen some young guys ruffing up the man as they drove past. They then turned around but by that time the young guys had gone. What the hell!!?
Our Uber arrived and we left the injured man in the capable hands of the Mauri guys as the ambulance wasnt far. On our 10 minute journey into town we also spotted a guy who had come off his scooter, and had blood all over his knee and elbow. Its not a lucky day.

We finally reach the esplanade after our injury filled 20 minutes and are amazed at how beautiful the man made lagoon looks as the sun sets over it. We walked along the path which had a vibrant feel about it as the trees were covered in colourful fairylights, ending up in a cool bar on the water that had happy hour. After a few drinks there we head over to Gilligans a very busy large club/pub with mulitple rooms and live music. We sat next to 3 hilarious Irish people, Yvonne, Molly and Paddy. They were travelling and bought us a round of jello shots to start the party off, and that it did.
We talked about our adventures around the Tablelands as they were venturing there the next day. We told them about the beautiful Milla Milla falls, it had never been quite warm enough for us to swim in but beautiful to look at. About the crater walk formed from volcanic air cracking the earth’s surface.  We discussed the nature skywalk which informed us about the wilderness that we were surrounded by, how we had a delicious cheese platter at a local dairy and saw the incredible Paranella Park, a must see.

Rob chatted to Yvonne for about 40 minutes and said to me the next morning ‘Im so glad she didnt ask me any questions when she was talking because i couldnt understand her Irish accent!’  I said ‘she chatted to you for ages though’ he said ‘i didnt understand anything, i just nodded’ haha what!
I wonder how many times he has just nodded to me? Plenty im sure!
We danced with them for a while until we all retired to our temporary accommodation for the night.

We stayed in Cairns another 2 nights once we had left our house sit for the last time. On our way there we did a 2 day dirt trek past the stunning Blancoe falls, on the Cashmere Karrama Range Road through multiple National Parks. It was incredible. We met an awesome couple, Steve and Kazza who after chatting invited us to use there outdoor shower and made us toast and coffee in the morning. They were amazing with a great setup to travel as long as they wanted. The 2 day dirt track to the highway was rough and challenging. Rob was in his element, i was struggling.

Once finally arriving in Cairns exhausted we stayed at an fabulous hostel called Tropical Days. Very quirky, clean with a great vibe. It had a bean bag and cushion seating area with hammock chairs around the backyard with a pool. It looked really cool and constantly played relaxing music. We got chatting to the owner Gabe, a enthusiastic person about life! He was also heading up to the tip of the Cape in the next few days. Thankfully he had mates who are avid riders who had just been. He gave one a call to check if the telegraph track (a very tough off road track) was ok to ride on. They didnt advise the first section called gunshot but said there was a way around it and join back on further up the track.
Very handy info for us indeed as the tip can often get up to 7 metres of rain during the wet season making it actually impossible to cross.

We went out once again exploring Cairns on a Saturday night and met a group of locals. One who particularly stood out was a guy named Colin. Colin was hilarious! Everything that come out of his mouth was just fast, witty and kept Rob and I in hysterics. We left the place with sore bellies and smiles.

The next morning we were lucky enough to be present for the iron man/woman triathlons in Cairns. We sat and ate lunch at an RSL looking out onto the the water watching all the competitors pass us by. How lucky are we! 

Day 185 Atherton

by 2souls2wheels

Whilst house sitting for a month in Ravenshoe i applied for any jobs that i spotted available so i could earn some extra cash whilst travelling. The first job i did was the catalogue run, yep i was the junk mail chick delivering my goods in a childs pram. 500 houses and the same rate no matter how fast or slow i was. I walked up and down hills treating it like i was in training for a marathon in the heat. I enjoyed being outside, working whilst exercising. The pile  never seemed to end but worth the pay. I definitely have a new gained appreciation for the work of the junk mail people.


One morning after the catalogue run eating breakfast with Rob i could hear the cows mooing. I asked Rob if it seemed unusual, they seemed to be mooing a lot.He said ‘no, they are fine, cows moo.’ I asked again, and asked for him to listen, it really seemed like a lot of mooing, i said ‘maybe one is having a calf?’He said ‘dont worry it sounds normal, eat your breaky.’ As he got up and put the dishes in the sink and looked out the window he screams ‘Shit the cows got out!’

We ran outside in our pyjamas and ran around trying to get them back into their paddocks. One big white cow was trying to get past me. Staring me in the eyes she jumped on her right side, so did i. Then to her left side, so did i. She continued right to left to right to left and ran straight past me!! What the!!!
Ive just been out smarted by a cow the cheeky thing.
I ran down to the bottom of the next paddock where the cows were starting to walk back up to the fence knowing they have been naughty and eating every last inch of grass they quickly can as if they are starving (which they are not, apparently just fussy).
I get to the bottom of the paddock and there is a huge male bull with massive balls. He stares at me as i tell him to move yet he doesnt move a muscle. Its another stand off, except this time it was against the bull!
I clap my hands loud and shout ‘Move! Move!Move!’ It looks like he just sighs at me, and slowly turns to start walking up. Haha if cows could talk this one would have grunted like a teenage boy!
They get back into there paddocks and Rob investigates how they got out. Apparently one had used its tongue to slide the latch on the gate open, clever things.
They managed to get out through a hole in the gate one more time as well whilst there.

Another morning we woke up and the sheep were out of the paddock, all in the front area of the house. It had been raining the night before when we fed them so as Rob quickly shut the gate but hadnt latched it properly.
These were definitly things that woke us up pretty quickly in the mornings.

Rob told me that one day whilst he was rounding up the chickens into the coupe he got Joshy to help, the old dog. Apparently Joshy enjoyed rounding them up so much that he didnt understand why Rob was calling him out of the coup whilst he slowly chased them around there food trough 2 more times. We also learnt very quickly that Joshy cant control his bladder and surprised us with a big  wee inside.

After i had done the catalogue run i got a call from Bruno, a farmer i had spoken to about working on his sweet potato farm. I said i was happy to work and would be there at 9 as he requested. I got up early and rode my bike an hour to Atherton through the misty Tablelands with dense pockets of forrestry to the morning sun. It was the nicest journey to work i have ever done.
Arriving at the job i sat in the staff tea room which was attached to the shed and covered in red dirt.I had a feeling i was going to get dirty but i was excited to be working on the farm.

The first job we were told to do was unfold and stack plastic Coles boxes. Next we went out on a huge piece of machinery. 4 people on the top level and a driver in the tractor pulling the machinery. The machine dug up the row of sweet potatoes as he drove along. They then made there way up a conveyor belt to where we were standing. The instructions i received were to pick out any dirt, poo, and rotten potatoes, ekkk!
As i didnt know what i would be doing i didnt bring gloves. The manager who gave me the instructions handed me one of his gloves just after we started. I often show all my emotions on my face without realising so he must have seen my apprehension about potentially picking up poo. About 10 minutes after that he thankfully gave me his other glove to use for the rest of the day. Lucky me!! The full time staff member Craig also let me know that often rats end up on the conveyer belt with the potatoes as well as snakes. He advised me to throw those over my shoulder. To which i responded ‘Haha your joking’ He replied ‘No’. He wasnt joking, and yes i saw a rat!
I got so dirty that day! Covered in red dirt and possibly poo.

On my way home that night i stopped into the local super market and bought some disposable gloves for the next day, at least my hands will be clean.
Not long after i was riding behind a truck, up a hill, in the dark and before i knew it there was an echidna curled up into a ball in the middle of the road. I stood up and held on hoping not to fall off the bike as i rode over it. I was lucky, the echidna was not.
Further up the road at an intersection Rob had previously declared was very dangerous a car pulled out in front on me with just enough time for me to swerve and miss it. I kept riding in shock. I dont think its a good idea to ride at night in this area, so with out even realising,  i didnt ride to work again. Conveniently Rob was always working on the bike anyway. By the time i got home and showered Rob had managed to make me a delicious dinner which i was so thankful for. I ate it and went straight to bed. I was knackered.

After walking around catalogues the whole day, to then working on the farm for 2 big days, by day 4 i was exhausted. It was the most amount of physical activity i had done for a whole day for a while. I woke up with a head ache and diarrhea. As i sat at the table eating my breakfast before my forth days work wondering if i was going to make the hour drive without needing to go to the bathroom i let out a sneaky pop in my own company in the silent house.
To my horror it was a shart and i needed a shower before i hit the road. Ohhh geeze, i could only laugh, I just shit myself.
By the time i had a shower and got back into another one of Barbs 1980s thick tracksuits i was running a little later than i wanted to be so off i went in Rob and Barbs car.(which they said we could use along with the tracksuit)
I drove around the windy bends of the Tablelands on the wet misty road on the edge of the steep hill to the sweet potato farm. One corner was quick and sharp with another very close behind and as soon as i realised the car had turned too much i over corrected and the car span out in a perfect circle on the road. Very very lucky. To the left of the road was a very steep hill and on the right a big ditch before the hill side. I was a little shaken and continued on driving like a Grandma, not just for the morning but for the rest of our stay on the farm.

Over the next few days i was required to pack sweet potatos into boxes like a constant game of tetris. Easy work but uncomfortable standing all day, a stool would have been like Christmas came early. On the other days i picked the stems and replanted them. Very physical but great being in the misty air all day as the rain drizzled.

I feel sorry for farmers because its now known that this work is backpacker work, but there are few backpackers that actually care about what they are doing. I worked with one German guy Marco who was one of the best workers ive ever seen. Always willing to give every task 100% plus. A lot of the other workers just want money and their visa extension but not prepaired to actually work for it and always complaining. I think a lot of them are just young and probably hung over. Regardless of the work ethics i did meet some pretty nice people on the job and i took a lot away from the farming experience. It was very humbling. I will be looking at sweet potatoes differently for the rest of my life.