Author: 2souls2wheels

After departing Terry we road on some terrible roads. Very corregated, sandy and dusty. We happily pulled into Old Laura to look at the old remains of a self sustainable farm station over 100 years old. It’s now deserted but had once farmed cattle, contained a steel factory and a house for Aboriginal farm workers. Quite incredible in the middle of nowhere. After having a walk around the grounds looking at the structures we head off again on the Peninsula Developmental Road.

By the time we reached Laura for lunch we were covered in red dirt. Laura was a small town consisting of 2 shops, one housing a barramundi burger for the price of $18.50. Im not sure what they were thinking, this isnt a burger shop in Sydney with a veiw of the Harbour. You would be lucky to see a geeko out here. I settled for a $6 toastie with cheese and tomato.

From Laura we continued on worse roads than what we had experienced before lunch. The corregation was larger, like 2 sharp speed bumps per meter continuously for hours and the occasional pockets of deep soft sand. I could feel the sun’s rays blistering through the mesh in my jacket as though every inch of my skin was burning underneath. I was sweating everywhere possible including the tops of my hands and front of my knees. It was my most difficult day on the bike so far and i was completley and utterly fried by the time i reached Musgrave station.

Rob asked me on arrival as we filled our bikes up with fuel “Do you want to stay here its $10 each or in the free camping down the road?
I could tell Rob would have been happier with free camping as we are both on a budget. I was however covered in dirt and as stinky as a teenage boys armpits prior to him discovering deodorant as i had run out. Thats right, i was feral. To be fair, Rob was too but he never seems to mind as much. $10 sounded like a cheap price for unlimited shower power, i was in.

We set up our tent close to the lake with only barb wired fencing separating us.  On another side there was a paddock with about 10 horses. We were surrounded and the owner informed us there were fresh water crocodiles in the lake that he feeds daily at 5pm. He let us know there was only one big fresh water crocodile in there but she is harmless. It didnt stop me from putting the bikes between the tent and the lake that night.

The next morning we packed up and had breaky as fast as we could, so we could leave before it got too hot. We found ourselves once again chatting to the friendly owner as the horses strolled around the front of the roadhouse. The owner runs laps around the park daily doing so many different jobs, always busy. He let us know that the two men sitting a few tables over were walking. ‘Walking where?’ I asked. Our current location had taken us half a day to ride to and there was nothing else in between.
Walking from the tip, the most northern point of Australia to the most southern in Tasmania. Walking!!!
The owner left so i said to Rob ‘lets go talk to them.’
He shook his head as he was keen to get on the road but i was too intrigued. I needed to know the hows? whys? So as soon as Rob set off to the toilet off i went to ask so many questions they have probably answered 100 times.

There names were Fred and Alex. One from New Zealand and the other from Germany. They had recently walked the length of NZ and Fred had previous done one of the great treks through Europe.
They were just doing it for themselves. No charity. They literally just liked to walking. They realised that the distances between stations at the top end were hot, dry and had a lot more people on it than anticipated (but it was school holidays)
Their next stop was 15 days away. One of the longest trecks inbetween stations they were to come accross. They had to pack less water than they felt comfortable with and more food just to get there. They had 1 outfit including the 1 pair of shoes on their feet. Alex and Fred had decided to make a sign and hold it up to ask for water as people were passing as they couldnt physically carry enough if they wanted to.

I was in awe. I thought they were crazy to walk that far but understood the self saticfation and growth that comes from exploring the unknown. Its not something that can be taught in a book or documentary no matter how many places you find out about. Its not something that can completley be described to a person as ones perception of the world is completly different to another. Its something you just have to do, and hopefully the people or person you choose travel with is excited to explore the unknown too.

From Cairns we road up the windy Kennedy highway through the Kuranda state forrest to the Kuranda markets. They reminded me of  shops on the esplanade at Byron Bay and a dash of Nimbim without the drugs.

The markets were delightful and we filled our bellies with a delicious falafel pocket. How i have missed middle eastern food after living there for nearly 8 years. It felt like the flavours ran straight to my blood stream like a falafel junkie.

From there we head along the Captain Cook
highway stopping in to see the elegant looking Port Douglas. Riding into town there were 5 star hotels on each side with well manicured lawns everywhere. Once getting to the main street it looked just like Noosa without the constant stream of tourists. We ate lunch on the beach which surprisingly had surf life savers guarding the croc infested beach. We looked at each other confused. Signage warning of crocodiles yet swimmers and lifeguards?
Not to sure how successful they could be saving someone from a croc..

From there we continued on the Mossman Daintree road until we reached a ferry taking us into the Daintree rainforest. The oldest rainforest in the world. It was dense, green in more shades i knew possible and incredibly moving to ride through.
We arrive on the edge of Cape Tribulation and set up camp. We are in a cute local caravan park backing onto the beach as the national park was full. Apparently a common occurance so we set up and went to the beach to watch the pink and purple sunset. Whilst there we found an abundance of coconuts crying for us to cut them open and drink. So Rob got chopping with his thrifty axe and we drank like Kings and Queens.

The next morning we took a romantic stroll along a board walk in the oldest rainforest in the world where the mangroves and rainforest meet. It was magical. The fallen decomposing leaves were all over the ground leaving their skeletons behind that look like the outline of fairy wings. So pretty.
  
We rode along to the Rossville Bloomfield road, stopping in the IGA to get some supplies and randomly a delicious Barramundi Burger. We continued on the dirt road through the forest where our next pub oasis awaited. The Lions Den in Rossville. You couldnt help but be draw into the old worn wood and the huge Lion statue as you enter this place of history built in 1875.

The walls told the stories with photos and signatures marking everything with a quirky museum of random things to top it off out the back.

Rob got chatting to a group of lovely people who live locally as he went off to have a cigarette, a new past time he assures me is just for holidaying. As we went behind the pub to set up camp on the river the group also ended up in our camping vicinity kindly asking us to join them for dinner and drinks.
They were chatty and so funny. We went into the pub after dinner where the patrons were playing guitars and one playing the spoons and singing songs.  Our new friend Elgan became there instantaneous musical director of the group with the confidence of a few beers.  He joined the band playing drums on a green bin which also became his seat.  We laughed, sang and drank. I felt like this was a common occurrence at the Lions Den and we were one group of thousands that had walked away with a piece of the Lions Den memory in our hearts.

Whilst house sitting for a month in Ravenshoe i applied for any jobs that i spotted available so i could earn some extra cash whilst travelling. The first job i did was the catalogue run, yep i was the junk mail chick delivering my goods in a childs pram. 500 houses and the same rate no matter how fast or slow i was. I walked up and down hills treating it like i was in training for a marathon in the heat. I enjoyed being outside, working whilst exercising. The pile  never seemed to end but worth the pay. I definitely have a new gained appreciation for the work of the junk mail people.

One morning after the catalogue run eating breakfast with Rob i could hear the cows mooing. I asked Rob if it seemed unusual, they seemed to be mooing a lot.He said ‘no, they are fine, cows moo.’ I asked again, and asked for him to listen, it really seemed like a lot of mooing, i said ‘maybe one is having a calf?’He said ‘dont worry it sounds normal, eat your breaky.’ As he got up and put the dishes in the sink and looked out the window he screams ‘Shit the cows got out!’

We ran outside in our pyjamas and ran around trying to get them back into their paddocks. One big white cow was trying to get past me. Staring me in the eyes she jumped on her right side, so did i. Then to her left side, so did i. She continued right to left to right to left and ran straight past me!! What the!!!
Ive just been out smarted by a cow the cheeky thing.
I ran down to the bottom of the next paddock where the cows were starting to walk back up to the fence knowing they have been naughty and eating every last inch of grass they quickly can as if they are starving (which they are not, apparently just fussy).
I get to the bottom of the paddock and there is a huge male bull with massive balls. He stares at me as i tell him to move yet he doesnt move a muscle. Its another stand off, except this time it was against the bull!
I clap my hands loud and shout ‘Move! Move!Move!’ It looks like he just sighs at me, and slowly turns to start walking up. Haha if cows could talk this one would have grunted like a teenage boy!
They get back into there paddocks and Rob investigates how they got out. Apparently one had used its tongue to slide the latch on the gate open, clever things.
They managed to get out through a hole in the gate one more time as well whilst there.

Another morning we woke up and the sheep were out of the paddock, all in the front area of the house. It had been raining the night before when we fed them so as Rob quickly shut the gate but hadnt latched it properly.
These were definitly things that woke us up pretty quickly in the mornings.

Rob told me that one day whilst he was rounding up the chickens into the coupe he got Joshy to help, the old dog. Apparently Joshy enjoyed rounding them up so much that he didnt understand why Rob was calling him out of the coup whilst he slowly chased them around there food trough 2 more times. We also learnt very quickly that Joshy cant control his bladder and surprised us with a big  wee inside.

After i had done the catalogue run i got a call from Bruno, a farmer i had spoken to about working on his sweet potato farm. I said i was happy to work and would be there at 9 as he requested. I got up early and rode my bike an hour to Atherton through the misty Tablelands with dense pockets of forrestry to the morning sun. It was the nicest journey to work i have ever done.
Arriving at the job i sat in the staff tea room which was attached to the shed and covered in red dirt.I had a feeling i was going to get dirty but i was excited to be working on the farm.

The first job we were told to do was unfold and stack plastic Coles boxes. Next we went out on a huge piece of machinery. 4 people on the top level and a driver in the tractor pulling the machinery. The machine dug up the row of sweet potatoes as he drove along. They then made there way up a conveyor belt to where we were standing. The instructions i received were to pick out any dirt, poo, and rotten potatoes, ekkk!
As i didnt know what i would be doing i didnt bring gloves. The manager who gave me the instructions handed me one of his gloves just after we started. I often show all my emotions on my face without realising so he must have seen my apprehension about potentially picking up poo. About 10 minutes after that he thankfully gave me his other glove to use for the rest of the day. Lucky me!! The full time staff member Craig also let me know that often rats end up on the conveyer belt with the potatoes as well as snakes. He advised me to throw those over my shoulder. To which i responded ‘Haha your joking’ He replied ‘No’. He wasnt joking, and yes i saw a rat!
I got so dirty that day! Covered in red dirt and possibly poo.

On my way home that night i stopped into the local super market and bought some disposable gloves for the next day, at least my hands will be clean.
Not long after i was riding behind a truck, up a hill, in the dark and before i knew it there was an echidna curled up into a ball in the middle of the road. I stood up and held on hoping not to fall off the bike as i rode over it. I was lucky, the echidna was not.
Further up the road at an intersection Rob had previously declared was very dangerous a car pulled out in front on me with just enough time for me to swerve and miss it. I kept riding in shock. I dont think its a good idea to ride at night in this area, so with out even realising,  i didnt ride to work again. Conveniently Rob was always working on the bike anyway. By the time i got home and showered Rob had managed to make me a delicious dinner which i was so thankful for. I ate it and went straight to bed. I was knackered.

After walking around catalogues the whole day, to then working on the farm for 2 big days, by day 4 i was exhausted. It was the most amount of physical activity i had done for a whole day for a while. I woke up with a head ache and diarrhea. As i sat at the table eating my breakfast before my forth days work wondering if i was going to make the hour drive without needing to go to the bathroom i let out a sneaky pop in my own company in the silent house.
To my horror it was a shart and i needed a shower before i hit the road. Ohhh geeze, i could only laugh, I just shit myself.
By the time i had a shower and got back into another one of Barbs 1980s thick tracksuits i was running a little later than i wanted to be so off i went in Rob and Barbs car.(which they said we could use along with the tracksuit)
I drove around the windy bends of the Tablelands on the wet misty road on the edge of the steep hill to the sweet potato farm. One corner was quick and sharp with another very close behind and as soon as i realised the car had turned too much i over corrected and the car span out in a perfect circle on the road. Very very lucky. To the left of the road was a very steep hill and on the right a big ditch before the hill side. I was a little shaken and continued on driving like a Grandma, not just for the morning but for the rest of our stay on the farm.

Over the next few days i was required to pack sweet potatos into boxes like a constant game of tetris. Easy work but uncomfortable standing all day, a stool would have been like Christmas came early. On the other days i picked the stems and replanted them. Very physical but great being in the misty air all day as the rain drizzled.

I feel sorry for farmers because its now known that this work is backpacker work, but there are few backpackers that actually care about what they are doing. I worked with one German guy Marco who was one of the best workers ive ever seen. Always willing to give every task 100% plus. A lot of the other workers just want money and their visa extension but not prepaired to actually work for it and always complaining. I think a lot of them are just young and probably hung over. Regardless of the work ethics i did meet some pretty nice people on the job and i took a lot away from the farming experience. It was very humbling. I will be looking at sweet potatoes differently for the rest of my life.

From Mission beach we rode up the gradual incline through sugarcane fields and banana plantations to the mountainous, hilly Tablelands. Our destination, a farm in Ravenshoe that we had organised to house sit for a month. 

We ride down the long driveway observing a shipping container and 2 sheds on the right and a processing area for the cows on the left as well as a chooks coup. Further on the left were bright green paddocks with 40-50 cattle and huge white wind turbines on the top of the hill.

Over the phone they informed us that the house is an old dairy they have transformed into a home yet they had no photos on the website.We pull up on the side of there caravan and are greeted by an old dog called Josh who waddled over to see what the noise was. Next we were greeted by Barb. Barb was a stong, straight to the point woman with no time for nonsense but always free for chat.

Rob then came out, a sweet man, always ready for a laugh. We chatted for a while and head inside the home we would call ours for one month. When we walked in there were things everywhere as they had just finished relocating. The 3 cats and dogs were allowed inside so there was lots of hair and dirt on the floor. As the owner Rob stated, we arnt house proud people but you can change anything you want to make yourselves feel more comfortable. We would definitely be giving it a good scrub once they left thats for sure.

Over the next 2 days we were introduced to the 40-50 cows, 30 sheep, 5 chooks, 1 rooster, 3 cats, 5 local birdly visitors and Josh and Molly, the dogs. We were shown feed and medication measurements, told timings, taught how to cut sheep’s nails, assisted in injecting a cow with an anti inflammatory, and told animal sleeping arrangements. One thing i loved was the fact that all the sheep and cows wear a name tag on there ear so the interaction feels personal. We were taught about the water tanks and what to do when they are overflowing, shown how to fix fences, drive tractors, using the 4 wheeler. I wrote everything down and was ready to be Queen of the Farm!

Barb said she used to ride some of the cattle like horses with her son and the cows allowed it as they had such a good relationship with them.

The morning they were leaving we were up and about early, well early for us. All their friends and family who they were searching for sapphires and quartz with had arrived to start there drive together. 

Unfortunity Rob and Barb still had a few things to pack into there caravan and hadnt tested there indicators. One of the back ones wasnt working so Roberto got in there with his magical fingers and fixed the light so they were good to go. As soon as they left we vacumed, vacumed and vacumed, so much we blew up the vaccume cleaner. Oopps. Haha not to worry we bought a new one specifically for pets with the money they left us for any extra food for the animals. They said if anything breaks it was going to anyways. It took us a whole day but the house was spotless by the time we were done.

We fed the animals and attempted to give the fluffy white cat Sam medicine out of the syringe into his little mouth. I had no idea cats mouths and teeth were so small! We got it in but it was an effort and we vowed from that point on we would just put it straight into his food and make sure he ate it.We fed the other animals and we were ready for bed. A full day on the farm and we were knackered.

The next day we ventured into the small town of Ravenshoe consisting of about 15 shops and 2 big pubs. 

We did some grocery shopping  and stopped at the wind turbines on the way. There was about 20 of them accross the tops of the hills. They were the first wind turbines in Queensland and beautifully majestic, moving in the wind.We arrived back at the farm and i cooked my little heart out that night and for the remainder of the month. How nice it was to be able to use a kitchen, oven, stove tops and pans again.I baked scones. Unsuccessfully.I tried.

Rob and Barb have left us with a hard drive full of movies so for the first week we worked and relaxed about the farm and watched movies. Riding most days for the last 5 months and constantly setting up and packing up a campsight had taken its toll and we needed to regain some energy. We did break the movie cycle to catch up with our Israeli friend Zohar once more. We met up at the local car racing event which Rob manged to discover. It was a bunch of beaten up cars driving around a dirty racetrack. Rob loved it. We met a couple at the raceway which seemed nice. They invited us all back to there place in the middle of nowhere, to show Rob their racetrack(dirt road) and a drink. Being at there house i felt uneasy, there large dog was so timid and scared of us she wet herself and was shaking when we went to pat her. The other dog was so aggressive we couldnt pat it and the baby cows were very skinny. What i saw didnt dictate the uneasiness i felt that was just icing on the cake. I mentioned my uneasiness to Rob and Zohar separately and they both agreed that there place didnt have a good energy at all. We could have come accross the Tablelands Ted Bundy and not even realised.

After that we went to visit Jodie and Paul who are two of Zohars friends. They have built there own house (not builders) and have a huge sectioned 12 piece rotational garden for the seasons. They were very inspirational, they were living off there land. Completly off the grid. I want a veggie garden!
The next day we all went to the Innot hot springs which was pools heated from a naturally occuring hot spring. We jumped from the hot pool where it feels like you skin is on the edge of burning and your sweating to the fresh cold pool so many times.
We then rode Zohar to her final Queensland destination. Luckily, her bike just made it there as her rear spokets teeth broke one at a time driving home. Thank goodness Rob tensioned the chain twice as it wouldnt have made it there otherwise. We say our goodbyes to our Israeli Princess, and have our final break up.

By the time we had breakfast, packed up, got to the ferry and accross to the camping store it was late afternoon. We rode to Paluma Park in the dark and i was done by the time we arrived. Riding already forces you to be so much more consciously aware on the road but when you ride in the dark your senses are on overdrive and by the time i got there i was absolutley buggered and covered in 1000 bugs. Rob started talking to a lovely Swedish couple in the park and i felt so rude but i just wanted to go to the tent and sleep.

The next morning we had a look around the area and came accross some beautiful lagoons. The water was cool and fresh, just the way Rob likes it. I said my goodbyes and headed back to Townsville to stay with my cousin Brook for an overdue girly catch up.
We talked and talked and talked until about 2am.
My cousin from fathers side and i have always had very simular personalities and we look simular too. Same height, body size, skin and hair colour. Whilst on the visit we were mistaken for sisters.
Anyways it turns out Brooks son was diagnosed with aspergers. I knew nothing about aspergers but had previously assumed it was a disability. So i asked Brook what the traits are. As Brook described all the traits and characteristics i said to her ‘it sounds like my Dad’ she said that she agrees and thinks my Dad has aspergers. I said ‘they are all traits i have too’ and jokingly said ‘maybe i have it.’  Brook smiled and said ‘theres a high chance you do, im pretty sure ive got it.’
I smiled and brushed it aside until i went to bed. That night i googled the shit out of aspergers. I researched anything i could find until my eye lids closed themselves.

I said my final goodbyes to my amazing cousin and rode back to Rob awaiting me in Paluma. As soon as i arrived Rob took me to some lagoons that he had discovered in the morning. They had waterfalls running over them and parts Rob slid down like a child down a waterslide.
It was beautiful and romantic, hes a catch.

We went back to the tent and i told him about my stay and about aspergers. I felt emotional and unsettled and it was all i was thinking about, constantly. We left big crystal creek and rode to Wallaman falls, Australias tallest waterfall. It was a fantastic ride up the windy roads through the misty rainforest. We camped nearby and met two diving instructors, one from Liverpool and the other from Thaiwan. Also another couple Dave and April who were bravely camping with there 4 month old baby. Amazing! We didnt here a peep from the little one all night. Apparently only wakes up once for a feed and heads back to sleep.

The next day we packed up and had breakfast next to the falls before we planned our journey to the bottom. A 4km round trip, straight down and straight back up. It took us 2 hours and it was definitly worth it. Sitting on the rocks as the base of the waterfall was magical. The light mist constantly floating above us as the never remorseful water continues to fall.
We ride back to camp and and make use of the access to the cold shower whilst we have it. As it begins to spit we get back on the bikes and ride through the rain forest, past the sugar cane to Mission beach all the time im trying not to think about Aspergers.
On the way we stop in a pub in the middle of nowhere. I read a report on females with Aspergers the night before and by this time id had a few days of reading up my sleeve. I had spoken to my sister about it and she said that its easy to find similarities in things we read about without to much bother so i decided to ask Rob. ‘Please read this list of characteristics and tell me if you think i have aspergers.’  As i sat there sipping on my lemonade waiting in anticipation, wondering if it was just me who thought the characteristics seemed like an autobiography of me. He said ‘i think you have it, if you dont your high up there’
Its far from a diagnosis, but i felt a sigh of relief, i wasnt going crazy.

On the way there was a a fancy estate Hitchinbrook Harbour in Cardwell. Amazing mansions with yatchs galour. It reminded me of some of the beautiful housing estates in Dubai thats usually surrounding a golf course but in this case its surrounding a harbour.

We finally arrive in the cute little coastal town of Mission beach. We set up the tent next to the beach in a caravan park and i jump inside still reading about Aspergers whilst pumping up the sleeping mattress. I cant remember exactly what i read but it hit home hard and i felt a profound rush of emotions.  Acceptance, happiness, sadness, relief, curiosity, confusion. I started to cry like a fast flowing river strangly with a smile on my face. Rob saw me and asked if i was ok?
I said ‘i really have it, i have aspergers’ Rob nodded and wrapped me in his arms.
I cried some more whilst realising the most powerful emotion i had was relief. For all the instances in my life i didnt understand, for the sensitivity of emotions i couldnt justify, for my willingness to relentlessly source out knowledge over obsessive topics, for the inappropriate or blunt  things ive said or my desire to have hermit time after social events. Aspergers.
Thats not even the tip of the iceberg.

I slept heavy and well waking up to a green tea outside my tent door on a stool as Rob was already up. What a guy!

We went for a nice walk around the area in the morning and i felt light like a weight had been lifted off my shoulders. I have aspergers.

When riding onto Magnetic Island there was a  magical breeze in the air, the sun was setting and the birds chirping. We rode along the coastal road to the coolest hostel/caravan park i have ever seen. As we drove into the driveway, we spotted a large amount of peering eyes from over many bean bags amongst the communal sitting area staring at the loud machines disturbing there tranquil googling experience. We park, organise a camping spot with reception and ride around to it. 

We were exhausted and i couldnt wait for a hot shower as all the showers were ice cold at Alligator creek. We set up the tent, blew up our mattress and head to the shower block.  Excitedly i hung up all my toiletries and turned on the water waiting for it to go hot. It didnt. I checked the taps, turning each off and on, nothing.
I grabbed my toiletries and ventured to the front counter to check out the problem catching an unexpected glance at my resting bitch face in the mirror on the way out.
As kindly as i could disguise my dissapointment i informed her the showers werent working and didnt have hot water. She let me know they broke the previous day and as it was a long weekend they were having trouble getting someone to fix them. I replied ‘That would have been nice to know before we set up the tent as we wouldnt have stayed here, ill come and check in the morning for an update.’
She didnt mind, or really care ‘ok’
I wouldnt usually mind but when your camping for a year and usually camping for free, all they need to provide are hot showers and a toilet. I have a cold shower most other days, thats the point of staying somewhere. Unlimited, unessisary, steaming hot shower time. Definitely a favourite past time.

The next morning Rob went and spoke to the girls and the front counter where he managed to get us upgraded to a backpackers hut with its own shower. Yayyy!! Hot shower!! That was magnificent. We were housed with 4 other young woman travelling Australia from Germany, Belgium, Denmark and Spain. Lucky Roberto!!

All showered and ready to hike we walked the world war 2 reuins treck. It was amazing to imagine and see the history of the rooms, and areas that lay in ruins before us. The amount of effort that would have been made to build the bunkers, stone walkways and cannon blocks would have been incredible.

 We were lucky enough to see a koala on the trek that was unfortunatly being disturbed by 3 loud English lads. They complained it was grumpy and aggressive but too be honest i felt a little grumpy in the presence of there super loud echoing voices in the calm environment. Maybe i would have got aggressive too if they put a camera in my face like they had been with the koala.

After a big hike and some breathtaking views we made our way back to the caravan park where the kitchen was closing early due to the fact it was a public holiday. There were a few stranded backpackers with no way to cook there food and no transport to resturants so we got out our cooking gear and before we knew it we were cooking up some 2 minute noodles for a couple of hungry travellers and giving some salad to a few hungry possums.
No Gordan Ramsey but food all the same.

The next morning we walked to the beach and ate breakfast in nourish food bar. We had a delicious acai bowl which was a great alternative to the usual eggs.
We planned to go for a ride around the island for the day. As we started to ride out of the park i pulled down my visor and was quickly mortified to realise there was a spider on it. As i tried to wipe it off from the outside with my hand my heart nearly popped out of its chest as i realised it was on the inside.
I stopped as fast as i could and got that helmet off. Ekkkk That got the blood pumping!

We ride around the amazing island surrounded by vines and volcanic rock. I managed to drop the bike again whilst going 5km over some thick sand only to be helped by 2 aussie females in a mini topless jeep as Rob had sped off.
Once he returned we parked on the side of the road and ventured out to the gorgeous beach to be greated by a random blue healer cross dingo.

We come accross two chairs that look like they had been waiting for us. As we look out at the horizon and pondered life we just sat and soaked up our surroundings. How lucky are we to be from this beautiful country. 

We all ride into Townsville which had a charming colonial feel about it, and in no better location than by the sea. When we arrived at our first set of lights where there was a huge group of woman on bikes and i would have guessed they were butch lesbians.
I however recently got called a dyke by a group of young boys driving past me in Airlie Beach. It wasnt the fact, they thought i liked girls that bothered me, it was that they thought i looked manly.
They were right. Something has changed in me . When you are riding a bike, camping 24/7, eating only food available and not showering daily, only when you can, it makes you stronger, dirtier and rougher. More manly. On top of that ive cut my hair for convenience, stopped wearing make up for weeks at a time and am use to having one small bag of clothes and toilettries. Im a different woman to the one that started the journey wanting to take stilettos. Yes…i know, seriously stilettos.
So i guess i now know better than to make assumptions about the woman at the lights. They were probably just strong, independent woman on bikes, go them.

Tropical weather in what seemed to be a very neat and well maintained town. We rode up the windy road as the sun glistened off the sweat on the fit weekend walkers hiking up to Castle Hill. When we arrived in the carpark at the top we were greeted by a chatty motorbike enthusiast who gave Rob the questionnaire on his KTM and my BMW. Any chance to talk about motor bikes Rob will take and enjoy. Zorah and i slowly found a way to sneak to the viewing area and absorb the incredible 360° view over Townsville.
We spotted some lagoons and beaches and decided that will be our next destination after lunch.

We stopped into a nice seafood resturant ready for some fish and chips. By the time i returned from the bathroom Zohar and Rob had realised that we could order the same menu item, but it would be much cheaper if we got take away. Ridiculously both menus were insight in the same resturant.
So off we went with our family pack of fish and chips and gave the copious amounts of food a great crack. The view from our picnic table was one to remember with the lagoon in front, the ocean behind and the haze of many islands in the background. We walked around to the swimming area of the beach and sun baked for a little while until Zohar departed us to venture onto her next destination.

We hugged and said our goodbyes until our next encounter where ever that may be. Rob and i walked along the path soaking in the tranquil atmosphere. There was slight wind in the air which didnt seem like much until we spotted a bride walking down the grassy isle to her groom. They stood on the edge of the small cliff looking out to the ocean as the wind blew her dress and the decorations. It would have looked great for the photos and im sure they apprecitive as the day would have been very hot without the breeze.

We stopped and had an acai juice at a health food shop near the end of the path and anticipated our plans for the next day.  There was a festival on called groove to the moove the next day but unfortunately tickets were over $100 each not including any food or drinks we would buy at the event. Thats an expensive day for 2 travellers so we decided on a comedy show that night instead which was hilarious.

The next day did a slow pack up of our tent, sleeping and cooking gear and head into town. Went shopping for some groceries and whilst there i checked the location of the ferry terminal to head over to Magnetic Island. I had checked the previous day for times and they ran until 7pm. Today however whilst checking the location, it stated that ferries only ran until 4.15pm, as it was Sunday. I must have looked at the wrong day. I calmly showed Rob the location and said ‘there is a ferry at 4.15 lets get it’ It was 4pm and a 7min ride so we swiftly took off and followed the sign that said ferry terminal. Unfortunatly there were two, one on either side of the river.

One catered for passengers and the other for vehcles as well. Rob got off his bike and said ‘ill just check if this is it.’ My heart was racing as i knew it was the last ferry and tomorrow was a public holiday, no ferries tomorrow. If we didnt get on.. we would be riding to the next camping spot 1 1/2 hours north and setting up camp in the dark. Missing out on Magnetic Island. Rob would not be a happy camper.

He comes back out and says its on the other side of the river and points. We look out and can see the boat coming so we quickly speed off to the nearest bridge and get to the terminal just in time to buy a ticket and ride on. Thank goodness.
We take a seat upstairs looking out towards Magnetic Island. I say to Rob, ‘that was lucky, this was the last ferry of the day’. He looked confused, i thought they ran until 7?’ ‘I made a mistake and just realised looking at the location, not on Sundays’ He laughs, ‘that is lucky’. He shakes his head, tucks me under his arm and we look out at the horizon. Magnetic Island here we come.

The ride to Home Hill was straight and long. It was the longest ride we had done seperatly. We had a dissagreement at Horseshoe Bay over something ridiculous. Being tired and spending 24 hours a day with each other can be testing at times and it was that day.
I thought we were staying at a camping spot in Ayr so i rode past Home Hill until i got Robs call wondering how far away i was.
I rode back and met him at the public toilets in Home Hill which also thankfully contained a shower. I was physically and emotionally exhausted by the time i arrived as we left on an unessisary bad note, and it was warm. I dont consider myself a jealous person but as i was feeling shabby when i arrived and Rob was talking to a beautiful Israli woman who was also travelling up the coast from Melbourne to Cairns on a motorbike by herself. It was like i arrived in slow motion and this woman was standing there with her long beautiful hair that was perfectly curled, blowing in the wind. She had a short white lace top, some tight jeans and high dirt bike boots. She looked hot and i felt like poo.

I pulled up, took off my helmet, introduced myself and gave her a hug, more so for myself hoping it would wash away this ridiculous uneasiness and it did.
She was a lovely, smart, strong woman whome i was grateful to meet and get to know. Her  name Zohar, like an Israeli warrior princess.

Rob and i have a shower, grab some food from the supermarket and we all cook it together that night at the bbq and tables next to the camping area.
We woke up to a lady and man shouting at each other about the legalities of the ladies dog being off its lead at the park. It was over pretty fast but entertaining to listen to. How people get worked up so fast over nothing. First world problems.

After discussing the night before our plans for the day we decided to set off to some dirt roads. Zohar had spent most of her riding on regular roads where as we have done a lot of dirt tracks so we were keen to take her on an adventure. We had a look what was around and set off to Allegator creek. The ride was amazing with huge amounts of sugar cane farms and mountainous backdrop. We were attempting to get there via what looked like a dirt road on google maps and turned out to be a dry creek bed. We attempted to ride on it for a little while through a narrow gap in between two wheat fields. If we only had to cover a short distance we probably would have continued but we didnt and it was hot, so we turned back around and head to the main road. On the way i almost blinked and passed a town but had my eyes open just long enoungh to spot the most gorgeous, small blue church. The sort of church someone would have gone to around the 1920’s.

 As we road into the camp ground there was police tape and vehicles blocking a road, emergency vehicles and SES people everywhere. Apparently there has been a man missing for 15 days and they found his car in the camp ground so they have been searching a few days.
There was a helicopter that flew over in the cold night, apparently incase he lit a fire. The search was on for the next two days whilst we were there, probably continued after we left, hopefully they found the guy. Surprisingly it was a cool area and 13° c at night. When you have sent most of your warm clothes home thats pretty fresh. We sat around with a delicious spread of ingredients and put them into rice paper wraps with satay sauce and chatted. Zohar was in the Navy for 5 years in Israel. Everyone, guys and girls have to do a 2-3 year serve when they turn 18,  but she enjoyed it so much she stayed for 5.
I enjoyed her stories of life in Israel.
Tomorrow we are off to explore Townsville.